Saturday, March 19, 2011

BBQ: Owensboro Mutton with Black Sauce

Owensboro Mutton Barbeque

Perhaps the most unusual barbeque tradition in the United States is the Owensboro (Kentucky) tradition of barbequeing mutton. Mutton is an old sheep, so its meat is naturally tough. Therefore, the barbeque cooking method, which is smoking the meat for many hours at a temperature of around 250F, is perfect for mutton.

Black Sauce

Kentucky lies next to Alabama, but for reasons now lost in the mists of history, cooks around Owensboro developed a black sauce, which is served traditionally with Mutton (old sheep).

The traditional sauce begins with the basic clear vinegar sauce, to which Kentucky cooks added dark molasses. Molasses, of course, is a by-product of sugar production and adds sweetness and sometimes bitterness as well. (Recall that the educated human tongue distinguishes only four taste elements: sweet, bitter, sour and salty.) Molasses is the most well-known ingredient which imparts both a sweet and a bitter flavor.

When dark molasses is added to vinegar, salt and pepper, the result is a strong sauce perfectly suited to the strong taste of mutton.

CONCLUSION

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(The section on Black Sauce was first published by Joe O'Connell in 1991 for the California Barbeque Association.)

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Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Terminology:  "No Enzymes"

STEAK-UMM MEATS

Whoops - I just 'liked' Steak-Umm Meats on Facebook. The company seems to support many good causes, and it sponsors NASCAR . . .

but . . .

NO ENZYMES??

I just read their website FAQ (click the link), which states that their products "do not contain enzymes" [emphasis added].

When I read that, I did a double-take because, of course, it's not true. All meat contains enzymes. As we all learned in High School Biology, cells could not function without enzymes.

So it would truly be a miracle is Steak-Umm Meat's products did not contain enzymes.

It reminds me of similar claims that a company's beef or chicken "does not contain hormones". These too are inaccurate claims.

ALL MEAT CONTAINS ENZYMES AND HORMONES

So let's be scientifically and factually accurate:

All meat contains both enzymes and hormones

Without both enzymes and hormones, life could not continue.

CONCLUSION

Steak-Umm Meats may have (and almost certainly) intended to claim that the company "adds no enzymes" to its meat products. (Some companies add enzymes to tenderize meat.) I'm sure that they'll clarify their FAQ quickly, and, as soon as they do, I'll edit and update this blog.

In the meantime, what is most important is for consumers themselves to do a double-take (so to speak) when they see claims that a meat product like steak or chicken "contains no enzymes" or "contains no hormones". Such claims are false. Consumer should know that all meat contains naturally occuring enzymes and hormones.

Furthermore, consumers should know and make informed decisions about whether to purchase and consume steak, beef or orther meats that contain "added enzymes" and/or "added hormones". This is a separate topic, and I'll blog about that separately.

COMMENTS

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Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Terminology:  "Organic"

DEFINITION

"Certified Organic" means that a qualified organization certifies that no man-made pesticides, herbicides, genetically modified organisms or fertilizers were used in producing the beef or the feed for the beef. Some producers may follow organic or near-organic practices but not be formally certified.

PROPOSED USDA GUIDELINES

As reported by MeatingPlace, the USDA on January 13, 2011, proposed new guidelines for use of the terms "100% organic" and "made with organic ingredients". The MeatingPlace blog explains some of the details of the proposed guidelines. The formal notice is available here. Comments may be submitted online (click here) through March 14, 2011.

CONCLUSION

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Tuesday, December 28, 2010

Quest for the Holy Grail of Steak

Where can we find the Holy Grail of Steaks? Assuming that price is absolutely no object, where can we purchase top loin (aka New York, Kansas City and strip) steaks or even the entire short loin subprimal, with all the following information about the steaks' origin:
  • Farm(s): What are the names and addresses of all the cow-calf, backgrounder, stocker, feedlot and other farms where the cattle was raised?
  • Breed: What is the breed (or hybrid) of the cattle?
  • Sex: What is the sex (e.g. steer) of the cattle?
  • Medication: What are the names and dates of administration of all vaccines, worming, antibiotics, hormones, etc.?
  • Feed: What are the names and dates when the cattle was fed grass (exaclty what types of grass and foliage), grain and other feeds?
  • Grade: What is the USDA grade, if applicable?
  • Age: What is the age of the cattle at slaughter? (As you know, USDA Prime Grade means that the maturity (estimated age) is less than 42 months, and if graded Prime0 or higher, the estimated age is less than 30 months.)
  • Marbling: What is the marbling score or IMF% at Rib 12/13? (As you also know, USDA Prime Grade means that the marbling is slightly abundant (SLAB00) or higher, but we want the highest possible -- knowing that only a very few (1 out of 10,000?) attains a marbling score of AB50 or higher.
In summary, can we purchase the highest-quality steak and know everything that the cattle farmer knows about how our steak was grown? Our goal is to be able to replcate a steak's taste, time after time (at least during a single season).

The best analogy (with all due credit to Carrie Oliver, of the Artisan Beef Institute) is with wine. In the "old days", we Americans bought "jug wine", produced from grapes from different farms, different varieties, etc. Today however, we demand wine from a known farm, grape variety, vintage year, etc. Thus, with wine, we can duplicate the taste from bottle to bottle, because each bottle is filled with wine from the same farm, same grape variety, same vintage year, etc.

Is this impossible with steak? Whether we purchase the most expensive steak from our local butcher or order the best at any steakhouse, we cannot replicate the taste. Next time we purchase or order, the odds are overwhelming that our next steak will be from a different farm, a different breed, etc. The reason that we cannot duplicate a great steak today seems to be that the producers sort them only by grade and not by farm, breed, etc.

The branded beef program doesn't work, because none of them limits its sales to only the highest quality steak. Most range from mid-choice to low-prime. As far as breed, many (like CAB) are not limited to a single breed but only to hair color (e.g. CAB and black hide color).

We know that there are some farmers who sell steak directly, but we know of none that is either USDA-graded or privately-certified marbling scores.

Perhaps our problem is insoluble becuase of statistics. That is, if the very highest quality steak comes from one-in-a-thousand or one-in-ten-thousand steers, then only the very largest producers may be able to match their farm/breed information with their high prime grade steak.

Is our quest for the Holy Grail of Steaks doomed to failure? Please post your comments/feedback. Thanks in advance.

CONCLUSION

SteakPerfection welcomes your comments.  Please share them below.  SteakPerfection is a complex process that involves every detail, from pasture to plate.
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First posted to CattleToday.com on 122810@2136

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Friday, July 9, 2010

Does Never-Frozen Dry-Aged Steak Taste Different?

BLOG UPDATES
Saturday 7/10/10 at 1:00 pm Update.

One of the Tweet community's most-respected beef experts says that there is no detectible difference whatsoever, as long as the steak is properly vacuum packed and flash-frozen.

No one, she says, no matter how fine a palate, can differentiate, in a blind taste test, between previously-frozen and never-frozen high quality, dry-aged steak, as long as the previously-frozen steak was properly handled (i.e., vacuum-packed, flash-frozen and properly stored and thawed).

Saturday 7/10/10 at 11:00 am Update.

One Tweep recently claimed that freezing a steak would cause it to lose its juices when it thaws.

Another Tweep challenged the claim, analogizing to an ice cube: the ice cube doesn't lose the water when it thaws.

We tweeted a third analogy (of unknown scientific validity): a bottle filled with water. When it freezes, the glass bottle breaks. Then, when it thaws, the water leaks away.

This analogy is to the cell structure within meat. When frozen, the water contained within each cell causes the cell walls to break. Then when thawed, the water which was previously contained within each cell leaks into the inter-cellular meat tissue. During cooking, the water not contained within the cell walls evaporates, leaving the meat dry (less juicy).

We need facts to know whether any of these analogies is valid. We'll continue to post updates to this Blog, so subscribe to keep up.

Saturday 7/10/10 at 10:00 am Update.

Two experts have so far weighed in on this Blog's question about whether never-frozen dry-aged steak tastes different from previously-frozen.

A meat scientist reports that previously-frozen meat would be tenderer than never-frozen with an estimated difference of 0.5kg. That's correct: previously-frozen is tenderer! Since tenderer steak is usually better, this finding could open up a new method to enhance the quality of dry-aged steak: freeze-thaw before cooking.

A New York grass-fed cattle farmer reports that frozen meat is wonderful and convenient for both farmers and home cooks. She reports that freezing helps #gassfed farmers harvest at best time.

This is becoming for interesting, because I have always assumed that freezing would harm the palatability of high quality, dry-aged steak. My assumption arises because of freezing's negative affect on fish and other food. Maybe I'm wrong!

We're going to discuss this topic on Twitter at #steakchat this coming Wednesday, 7/14/10, at 8:00 pm ET (5:00 pm PT).

Please join #steakchat on Wednesday
to discuss this important topic!

And please keep sending your information!

QUESTION OF THE DAY

Do you think that _some_ steak experts can consistently identify previously-frozen vs never-frozen 28-day dry-aged USDA Prime Grade steak?

BLIND "TASTE" TEST

We require a valid, blind "taste" test.

We are defining a "taste" test to include flavor, juiciness and tenderness -- that is, all the sensory attributes, including sight. The "blind" in our blind taste test refers to the fact that the subject of the test has no information about which steak was previously-frozen and which was never-frozen. For simplicity, we call this a "blind taste test".

We're not talking about the average eater but the small minority of people (maybe 5%) who have a fine, educated palate. This is similar to a "Nose" who can identify wine, perfume, cheese, etc. These are people who have the ability -- the 'mouth' -- to separate the previously-frozen from the never-frozen in a blind taste test consistently, repeatedly, any day. That is, they are not just making a lucky guess but must consistently demonstrate their ability to differentiate between the two.

In addition, of course, the two steaks in each blind taste test -- one previously frozen and the other never-frozen -- must be exactly the same cut, from the same carcass and cooked exactly the same way.

To make the question relevant (since dry-aging is usually used only for the best steak), the test specifies that the steaks in each test be USDA Prime Grade (i.e. the steaks are from young steers and are reasonably well-marbled).

We welcome information about the results of the same bling taste test applied to frozen vs never-frozen grass-fed steak, where all other variables are exactly the same.

"DIFFERENT", NOT "BETTER"

This survey does not test the question of whether never-frozen tastes better than previously-frozen. (Remember, as described above, that "taste" includes all sensory elements, including flavor, juiciness, tenderness and even sight.)

Instead, the survey focuses only on whether or not each has a different taste from the other than can be identified consistently by at least some tasters.

SCIENTIC BASIS

If you think that some can pass the test, what is the scientific reason? Do so many beef cells explode that the cooked steak comes out mushy?

FEEDBACK

Please post your information by comment below, by email, or by tweeting tweet us @SteakPerfection.

If you have any more questions, send them by DM, tweet or other way (see below).

BLOG UPDATE

When we obtain and analyze the scientific data, we shall update this blog with the results of this survey. Until this blog is updated with the final results, follow the progress of this survey:

JOIN US AT #STEAKCHAT
EVERY WEDNESDAY AT 8:00 pm ET

STEAKPERFECTION

SteakPerfection welcomes your comments.  Please share them below.  Also, please let us know if you see any errors.  We try to ensure that all of the steak information that we provide is both accurate and supported by credible cites.  Thus, please let us about any errors, so that and we can correct them immediately.

SteakPerfection is a complex process that involves every detail, from pasture to plate.
Click here for our SteakPerfection Twitter.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Facebook.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Blog.
Click here for our Steak Perfection LinkedIn.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Wave.
Click here for our Steak Perfection website.

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Sunday, June 6, 2010

#SteakChat 6/9/10: Cooking Steak

#STEAKCHAT TOPIC ON 6/9/10

For the #SteakChat conversation on June 9, 2010, the topic will be:
What’s the best way to cook a great steak?

There are 8 cooking equipment options, 10 techniques, 9 fuels and 10 temperature levels. Which combinations have you tried? Which do you prefer? Which produce great steak? Which are likely to produce mediocre steak?

5 COOKING EQUIPMENT OPTIONS

There are 5 basic cooking equipment options available for steak:
  1. Broiler
  2. Grill
  3. Oven
  4. Pan
  5. Sous Vide
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

10 COOKING TECHNIQUES

There are 10 basic cooking techniques for steak:
  1. Boil
  2. Braise
  3. Broil
  4. Grill
  5. Pan Fry
  6. Pan Roast
  7. Roast
  8. Stew
  9. Sauté
  10. Stir Fry
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

9 COOKING FUELS

There are 9 basic cooking fuels that produce heat to cook steak:
  1. Briquettes (variety of types)
  2. Electric Elements (e.g. broiler)
  3. Hardwood (variety of types)
  4. Infrared Tiles
  5. Lump Charcoal (variety of types)
  6. Metal Conduction (e.g. pay fry)
  7. Natural Gas
  8. Propane Gas
  9. Sous Vide (i.e. low heat via plastic bag in water)
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

10 COOKING TEMPERATURE LEVELS

There are 10 different temperature levels for cooking steak (all temperatures are given in degrees Fahrenheit):
  1. 1,200° to 1,600°
  2. 900° to 1,200°
  3. 750° to 900°
  4. 650° to 750°
  5. 550° to 650°
  6. 450° to 550°
  7. 350° to 450°
  8. 250° to 350°
  9. 212° to 250°
  10. 125° (sous vide) to 212°
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

WHAT IS #STEAKCHAT?

#SteakChat invites everyone who want to discuss and share ideas about steak.

#SteakChat covers topics such as the many different tastes and textures produced by different cooking methods, cooking fuels, steak cuts, steak marbling, cattle breeds, cattle feed, and even different farms.

#SteakChat takes place every Wednesday at 8:00 pm ET (every Thursday at 0000 GMT) and lasts about one hour.

#SteakChat may be very fast-paced. It takes place in real time, as a streaming conversation. Think of #SteakChat as a group of friends having a discussion about steak while standing around a backyard grill or dining in a steak house.

For information about how to participate in #SteakChat, see our Blog on How to Participate in #SteakChat.

MORE QUESTIONS?

If you have any more questions, send them by DM, tweet or other way (see below).

JOIN US AT #STEAKCHAT
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 9, AT 8:00 pm ET

STEAKPERFECTION

SteakPerfection welcomes your comments.  Please share them below.  Also, please let us know if you see any errors.  We try to ensure that all of the steak information that we provide is both accurate and supported by credible cites.  Thus, please let us about any errors, so that and we can correct them immediately.

SteakPerfection is a complex process that involves every detail, from pasture to plate.
Click here for our SteakPerfection Twitter.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Facebook.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Blog.
Click here for our Steak Perfection LinkedIn.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Wave.
Click here for our Steak Perfection website.

A short link to this blog is http://bit.ly/9nLSdX

#SteakChat 6/9/10: Cooking Steak

#STEAKCHAT TOPIC ON 6/9/10

For the #SteakChat conversation on June 9, 2010, the topic will be:
What’s the best way to cook a great steak?

There are 8 cooking equipment options, 10 techniques, 9 fuels and 10 temperature levels. Which combinations have you tried? Which do you prefer? Which produce great steak? Which are likely to produce mediocre steak?

5 COOKING EQUIPMENT OPTIONS

There are 5 basic cooking equipment options available for steak:
  1. Broiler
  2. Grill
  3. Oven
  4. Pan
  5. Sous Vide
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

10 COOKING TECHNIQUES

There are 10 basic cooking techniques for steak:
  1. Boil
  2. Braise
  3. Broil
  4. Grill
  5. Pan Fry
  6. Pan Roast
  7. Roast
  8. Stew
  9. Sauté
  10. Stir Fry
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

9 COOKING FUELS

There are 9 basic cooking fuels that produce heat to cook steak:
  1. Briquettes (variety of types)
  2. Electric Elements (e.g. broiler)
  3. Hardwood (variety of types)
  4. Infrared Tiles
  5. Lump Charcoal (variety of types)
  6. Metal Conduction (e.g. pay fry)
  7. Natural Gas
  8. Propane Gas
  9. Sous Vide (i.e. low heat via plastic bag in water)
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

10 COOKING TEMPERATURE LEVELS

There are 10 different temperature levels for cooking steak (all temperatures are given in degrees Fahrenheit):
  1. 1,200° to 1,600°
  2. 900° to 1,200°
  3. 750° to 900°
  4. 650° to 750°
  5. 550° to 650°
  6. 450° to 550°
  7. 350° to 450°
  8. 250° to 350°
  9. 212° to 250°
  10. 125° (sous vide) to 212°
Which of these produces great steaks? Which produce mediocre steaks?

WHAT IS #STEAKCHAT?

#SteakChat invites everyone who want to discuss and share ideas about steak.

#SteakChat covers topics such as the many different tastes and textures produced by different cooking methods, cooking fuels, steak cuts, steak marbling, cattle breeds, cattle feed, and even different farms.

#SteakChat takes place every Wednesday at 8:00 pm ET (every Thursday at 0000 GMT) and lasts about one hour.

#SteakChat may be very fast-paced. It takes place in real time, as a streaming conversation. Think of #SteakChat as a group of friends having a discussion about steak while standing around a backyard grill or dining in a steak house.

For information about how to participate in #SteakChat, see our Blog on How to Participate in #SteakChat.

MORE QUESTIONS?

If you have any more questions, send them by DM, tweet or other way (see below).
JOIN US AT #STEAKCHAT ON WEDNESDAY, JUNE 9

STEAKPERFECTION

SteakPerfection welcomes your comments.  Please share them below.  Also, please let us know if you see any errors.  We try to ensure that all of the steak information that we provide is both accurate and supported by credible cites.  Thus, please let us about any errors, so that and we can correct them immediately.

SteakPerfection is a complex process that involves every detail, from pasture to plate.
Click here for our SteakPerfection Twitter.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Facebook.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Blog.
Click here for our Steak Perfection LinkedIn.
Click here for our Steak Perfection Wave.
Click here for our Steak Perfection website.

A short link to this blog is http://bit.ly/cXpbkD